Hartley said:
How is the feel?
I love it, it’s in between a Teflon insert putter and metal face. So if you like something like the Odyssey White Hot, this actually might have a better feel for you.
I tend to not send the ball past the hole that often, but some of that is probably a mental placebo effect as I’m just practicing putting a lot more to try them out.
Hartley said:
How is the feel?
Probably pretty soft compared to a metal face.
This is really cool, OP. I bet the sound is very satisfying!
Avery said:
This is really cool, OP. I bet the sound is very satisfying!
Thank you, the sound is great. I love seeing the surprise on people’s face the first time they try it.
You make that mf out of walnut or ebony and I am in!
Wesley said:
You make that mf out of walnut or ebony and I am in!
I’ve done walnut, that will be an option! I gotta find a good supplier of ebony but will definitely give it a go. Each material is a new USGA submission and I would ideally like people to select whatever wood they want as an option.
Is this zero torque? What price range do you anticipate?
Eli said:
Is this zero torque? What price range do you anticipate?
Zero torque in principle, my tolerances are 0.05mm for the placement on weights because I’m doing it by hand on a compound vise. I’m also exploring an offset shaft with a hardwood hosel that’s working nice, but balancing the putter is more difficult so I got some work to do.
I’m not sure on price range, the prices I’ve soft tested in discussion were from $250-500 depending on customizations and wood choice. I don’t imagine selling a putter for over $500, I want to make it more accessible. Unfortunately, $250 is probably the low end with current cost of goods and labor. But when I get it automated, that will probably allow me to drop that $250 to maybe $200.
When and how much. I want.
Indie said:
When and how much. I want.
I won’t approach selling these until I complete the certification process. The USGA next step has testing to ensure the durability and repeatability of a production batch. I think this is really important before I put these putters in people’s hands for money. I don’t want someone using one of my putters for a serious event and there being an issue.
I have released a couple into the wild through a charity auction and will probably do that again if asked.
I would estimate 4-6 months more working on it before getting certification.
@Addison
I want one too!! Can we pay to test your future brand? I’m in!
Ty said:
@Addison
I want one too!! Can we pay to test your future brand? I’m in!
I’d be curious about this too.
This is pretty cool. Would there be any recommend maintenance/or care to keep it in good shape?
Nico said:
This is pretty cool. Would there be any recommend maintenance/or care to keep it in good shape?
For the most part it’s fine, I’m using a premium hardwood floor sealer as the final treatment so it should be sealed from water for 10+ years.
I will give it a wipe with butcher block oil as an annual maintenance thing. I’ll probably pair each putter with a small bottle of my homemade stuff for an annual maintenance schedule. Really just helps make it shine.
The main thing I’ve noticed is you want to clean your ball if you hit out of a sand trap. If you hit the ball really hard with certain types of sand on it, like sand you find at a public course, they have smaller rocks that could leave wear on the face. I haven’t noticed any effect, just more of a cosmetic thing. I prefer olive wood because it doesn’t have that issue where walnut is a softer hardwood that is more prone to that.
I’ll also add I’ve been playing these putters for the last year and have purposefully broken a couple putters. The main one that comes to mind is I purposefully hit the face with a wedge, like dropping it on the putter face by the green. It did leave a small dent that I was able to repair with epoxy and sanding the face clean. It’s surprisingly easy to clean up if something happens, but I still have more testing to do!
@Addison
Have you thought about roasting them? That will make the wood much harder and more stable. Roasted wood used in basses and guitars don’t even need a finish.
Ray said:
@Addison
Have you thought about roasting them? That will make the wood much harder and more stable. Roasted wood used in basses and guitars don’t even need a finish.
I’m gonna have to try this out!
@Addison
It’s a Japanese technique they use on siding - I remember seeing it on HGTV and it looks cool as hell. Definitely look into it!
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